Skip to main content

Full text of "Report on Wind Cave, Crater Lake, Sully's Hill, Platt, and Mesa Verde national parks and Casa Grande ruin"

See other formats


^0 


0^        V  *?5^*  A,  < 


:i«=^^ 


'oK 


'Ao^ 


"<v^^^*'/    v^^-\/    V^^^V  "V-»- 


A  6^ 


,'.      '^^AO^  o, 


^oV" 


^•^-'V.^'^'^'/^i^'-/^^..^^\*>S&  V^"^  **«liK-.  '^^  ^^ 


'^p^' 


"a>'=»' 


'.  ^^  .^  •  ^^M^r  \^^,^-  :'^m%  v,^^ "  y^ 


v\^ 


*^   .0^^^-.    ^^ 


-^^^, 


V-*". 


.•   .<=p>^  \wm^:  .v^^^  «•. 


rv'^^v  ^'^^'^i.^^^  ^v^'^^^'V  %.'^^*\^ 


/Li 


REPORT  ON 


WIND  CAVE,  CRATER  LAKE,  SULLYS  HILL, 

PLATT,  AND   MESA  VERDE  NATIONAL  PARKS 

AND  CASA  GRANDE  RUIN 


1907 


COMPILED  IN  THE  OFFICE  OF  THE  SECRETARY  OF  THE  INTERIOR 


WASHINGTON  :  GOVERNMENT  PRINTING  OFFICE  :   1908 


^^TiS 


o  14  iyOb 

0.  or  a 


REPORT  ON  WIND  CAVE,  CRATER  LAKE,  SULLYS  HILL,  PLATL, 
AND  MESA  VERDE  NATIONAL  PARKS  AND  CASA  GRANDE 
RUIN. 


COMPILED    IN    THE   OFFICE    OF   THE    SECRETARY    OF    THE    INTERIOR. 


AVIND  CAVE  NATIONAL  PARK. 

This  park  is  located  near  the  southern  end  of  the  Black  Hills  of 
western  South  Dakota,  about  12  miles  east  of  the  town  of  Hot 
Springs,  and  12  miles  southeast  of  the  town  of  Custer.  It  has  an 
area  of  16^  square  miles  (10,560  acres).  The  entrance  to  the  cave, 
three- fourths  of  a  mile  north-northeast  of  the  center  of  the  reserva- 
tion, is  8|  miles  north  of  Hot  Springs,  S.  Dak.,  the  most  convenient 
railway  station. 

It  was  set  aside  as  a  public  park  by  act  of  Congress  approved  Jan- 
uary 9,  1903  (32  Stat.  L.,  765).  The  park  is  placed  under  the  exclu- 
sive control  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior,  who,  amolig  other  things, 
is  authorized  to  prescribe  rules  and  regulations  and  establish  such 
service  as  may  be  deemed  necessary  for  its  management  and  protec- 
tion, and,  in  his  discretion,  to  rent  or  lease  the  cave  from  which  the 
park  takes  its  name,  and  also  the  parcels  of  ground  within  the  park 
for  the  erection  of  such  buildings  as  may  be  required  for  the  accom- 
modation of  visitors,  the  income  from  such  rentals  or  leases  to  be 
expended  in  the  care  and  improvement  of  the  park. 

The  act  provides  for  the  relinquishment  of  unperfected  bona  fide 
claims  and  patented  lands  within  the  limits  of  the  park  and  the  secur- 
ing of  lands  outside  the  park  in  lieu  thereof.  This  provision  was  not 
repealed  by  the  act  of  March  3,  1903  (33  Stat.  L.,  64),  repealing  the 
act  of  June  4,  1897  (30  Stat.  L.,  36),  and  acts  amendatory  thereto, 
allowing  selections  in  lieu  of  lands  situated  in  forest  reserves,  and 
accordingly  a  letter  of  instructions  providing  for  selections  in  lieu 
of  lands  situated  within  the  limits  of  the  park  was  issued  August 
14,  1905. 

At  the  time  of  the  creation  of  the  park  there  were  ten  entries,  cov- 
ering 1 ,519.15  acres,  5  of  which,  covering  799.76  acres,  have  been  can- 
celed, and  5  entries,  covering  719.39  acres,  have  been  found  to  be 
proper  in  all  respects  and  patents  have  been  issued  therefor.  It  is 
very  desirable  for  administrative  purposes  that  all  private  and  other 
interests  be  eliminated  from  the  park,  and  an  appropriation  for  that 
purpose  should  be  made  by  Congress. 

[26472] 

(3) 


4  NATIONAL,   PARKS. 

Sections  16  and  36,  set  aside  for  use  as  school  land  for  the  State 
of  South  Dakota  by  the  organic  act  of  February  20,  1889  (25  Stat. 
L.,  676).  creating  said  State,  are  located  within  the  limits  of  the 
park.  Negotiations  were  accordingly  entered  into  with  the  governor 
of  South  Dakota  with  a  view  to  having  the  State  relinquish  its  right 
to  such  school  lands  and  selecting  in  lieu  thereof,  under  the  pro- 
visions of  the  act  of  February  28,  1891,  lands  outside  of  the  limits  of 
the  park,  which  has  recently  been  accomplished. 

During  the  year  2,751  tourists  visited  the  reservation,  the  majority 
of  whom  were  shown  through  the  Wind  Cave  by  competent  guides, 
without  whose  assistance  it  would  be  dangerous  for  one  not  thor- 
oughly familiar  with  the  cave  to  make  the  trip.  The  stairs  and  paths 
in  the  cave  have  been  renewed  and  repaired. 

A  survey  of  the  boundaries  of  the  park  has  been  completed  and 
a  map  of  the  same  prepared,  and  a  hydrographic  survey  to  deter- 
mine the  existence  and  nature  of  the  waters  within  the  limits  of  the 
park  has  been  made,  upon  the  results  of  which  the  water  system 
herein  referred  to  was  based. 

A  water  and  pipe  system  for  conveying  water  from  Beaver  Creek, 
at  the  northwestern  boundary  of  the  park,  to  the  superintendent's 
office  and  residence  building,  a  distance  of  about  2  miles,  has  been 
completed  and  will  remedy  a  long  felt  want,  as  the  geological  forma- 
tion of  the  land  precluded  obtaining  water  by  means  of  artesian 
wells,  and  there  is  no  other  source  of  supply  except  a  spring  located 
on  patented  land  in  the  park,  from  which  it  was  impracticable  to 
take  water. 

Mr.  Seth  Bullock,  now  marshal  for  the  district  of  South  Dakota, 
with  the  consent  of  the  Attorney-General,  continued  in  general  charge 
of  the  reservation,  and  the  superintendent,  Mr.  William  A.  Rankin, 
in  accordance  with  instructions,  has  conferred  with  him  in  regard  to 
its  administration. 

A  revocable  privilege  has  been  granted  to  the  wife  of  the  super- 
intendent to  furnish  meals  to  tourists  at  50  cents  each,  which  service 
had  proved  to  be  very  desirable  and  satisfactory  in  former  seasons. 

An  estimate  for  an  appropriation  of  $2,700  for  the  management 
and  improvement  of  the  park  has  been  submitted  to  Congress. 

CRATER  LAKE  NATI0:N^AL  PARK. 

By  the  act  of  Congress  approved  May  22,  1902  (32  Stat.  L.,  202), 
the  tract  of  land  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  parallel  43°  ¥  north 
latitude,  south  by  42°  48'  north  latitude,  east  by  the  meridian  122° 
west  longitude,  and  west  by  the  meridian  122°  16'  west  longitude, 
having  an  area  of  249  square  miles,  in  the  State  of  Oregon,  and  in- 
cluding Crater  Lake,  has  been  reserved  and  withdrawn  from  settle- 
ment, occupancy,  or  sale  under  the  laws  of  the  United  States,  and 
dedicated  and  set  apart  forever  as  a  public  park  or  pleasure  ground 
for  the  benefit  of  the  people  of  the  United  States,  to  be  known  as 
"  Crater  Lake  National  Park." 

The  act  setting  aside  these  lands  for  park  purposes  differed  from 
the  acts  of  Congress  creating  other  national  parks  in  that  it  provided, 
among  other  things,  that  the  reservation  should  be  open  "  to  the  loca- 

[26471!] 


NATIONAIj  pakks.  5 

tion  of  mining  claims  and  the  working  of  the  same."  It  was  not 
believed,  however,  to  be  the  purpose  of  this  provision  to  extend  the 
mining  laws  to  the  reservation  without  limitation,  but  only  to 
authorize  the  location  and  working  of  mining  claims  therein  in  such 
manner  as  not  to  interfere  with  or  prejudicially  affect  the  general 
purpose  for  which  the  reservation  was  established.  The  regulations 
for  the  government  of  the  park  clearly  define  the  conditions  under 
which  this  privilege  is  to  be  exercised. 

About  2,600  persons  visited  the  park  during  August  and  September. 

On  May  1,  1907,  Mr.  Will  G.  Steel,  of  Portland,  Oreg.,  was  author- 
ized to  maintain  in  the  park,  from  that  date  until  November  30,  1907, 
a  transportation  service  and  camping  accommodations  for  tourists. 
In  connection  therewith  he  was  also  granted  a  revocable  permit  to 
place  upon  Crater  Lake  a  gasoline  launch  and  rowboats. 

The  superintendent  reports  a  noticeable  increase  in  the  game  ani- 
mals, a  number  of  black  bears  and  a  good  many  deer,  which  appear 
to  be  quite  tame,  having  been  seen  the  past  summer. 

During  August  necessary  repairs  and  improvements  were  made  on 
the  trail  inside  the  crater  and  leading  to  the  waters  of  Crater  Lake. 
Trails  to  Glacier  Peak  and  Mount  Scott  were  planned,  and  that  to 
the  latter  was  opened.  The  superintendent  recommends  very  strongly 
the  coTTstruction  of  a  good  wagon  road  along  the  Mount  Scott  trail, 
in  order  to  make  more  easily  accessible  the  scenery  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Garfield  Peak  (elevation  8,175  feet),  Applegate  Peak  (eleva- 
tion 8,223  feet).  Sun  Creek,  and  the  pinnacles  on  Sand  Creek.  Such 
a  road  would  afford  eas}^  access  to  Bridal  Veil  Fall,  where  the  water 
drops  300  feet  from  the  vertical  wall  of  Applegate  Peak,  and  to  the 
"  Pinnacles  "  or  crater  cones  in  the  wonderful  Sand  Creek  Gorge. 

At  the  head  of  Anna  Creek,  near  the  superintendent's  office  and 
residence,  there  is  a  superb  waterfall  which  could,  at  nominal  ex- 
pense, be  utilized  for  lighting  all  the  buildings  connected  with  his 
headquarters. 

In  addition  to  the  many  permanent  improvements  which  should 
be  made,  a  very  large  amount  of  repair  work  is  necessary  in  the  park 
each  spring  owing  to  the  heavy  snows  and  rains  and  numerous  slides 
from  the  mountains. 

An  estimate  for  an  appropriation  of  $10,845  for  the  management 
and  improvement  of  the  park  during  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  30, 
1909,  has  been  submitted  to  Congress. 

SULLYS  HIlLIi  NATIONAL  PARK. 

This  reservation,  set  aside  by  Executive  proclamation,  dated  June 
2,  1904,  under  the  act  approved  April  27,  1904  (33  Stat.  L.,  319),  con- 
tains about  960  acres.  It  is  located  on  the  south  shore  of  Devils  Lake, 
North  Dakota,  having  about  2  miles  of  shore  line,  with  its  western 
boundary  1  mile  east  of  the  Fort  Totten  Indian  School.  Inasmuch 
as  no  appropriation  has  been  made  for  the  care  and  protection  of 
this  reservation.  Mr.  Chas.  M.  Ziebach,  in  charge  of  the  Indian  In- 
dustrial School,  Fort  Totten,  N.  Dak.,  succeeding  Mr.  Chas.  L.  Davis, 
has  been  designated  as  acting  superintendent,  and  required  to  exer- 
cise the  necessary  supervision  and  control  over  the  same  until  other 

[26472] 


6  NATIONAL   PARKS. 

provision  can  be  made  for  the  protection  of  the  park.  The  tract  is 
well  wooded  and  has  an  ample  supply  of  water  and  many  rugged 
hills,  among  which,  on  the  western  boundary,  lies  what  is  known  as 
"  Sullys  Hill."  In  the  southwestern  part  of  the  park  is  a  small 
body  of  water  known  as  "  Sweet  Water  Lake,"  west  of  which  the 
surface  is  generally  level  and  the  soil  good. 

Approximately,  100  persons  camped  in  the  park  for  three  days  or 
more  during  the  past  summer,  and  300  spent  the  day  in  sight-seeing. 

The  acting  superintendent  renews  his  recommendations  for  the 
fencing  of  the  exposed  boundaries  of  the  park,  the  construction  of  a 
dock  on  the  lake  shore  to  accommodate  visitors  coming  by  boat,  the 
placing  of  the  roads  in  proper  condition,  the  construction  of  the 
necessary  bridges,  the  walling  up  of  springs,  and  the  clearing  away 
of  the  undergrowth. 

An  estimate  for  an  appropriation  of  $3,000  for  the  protection  and 
improvement  of  the  park  has  been  submitted  to  Congress. 

PLATT  IN^ATIOIVAL  PARK. 

By  the  acts  of  Congress  of  July  1,  1902  (32  Stat.  L.,  641),  and 
April  21,  1904  (33  Stat.  L.,  220),  629.33  and  218.89  acres,  respec- 
tively, at  the  town  of  Sulphur,  Okla.  (then  Indian  Territory),  were 
segregated  as  the  "  Sulphur  Springs  Reservation,"  which  designation^ 
by  joint  resolution  approved  June  29,  1906,  was  changed  to  "  Piatt 
National  Park." 

The  park,  with  a  total  area  of  848.22  acres,  extends  in  irregular 
form  a  distance  of,  approximately,  3  miles  from  northeast  to  south- 
west along  Rock  and  Sulphur  creeks,  including  the  entire  course 
of  the  latter,  and  has  a  circuit  of  9  miles. 

Within  the  park  are  33  known  mineral  and  2  nonmineral  springs. 
Most  of  the  mineral  springs  A^re  sulphur  springs,  although  there 
are  bromide,  soda,  and  iron  springs,  the  main  groups  being  as  fol- 
lows: Bromide  and  Bromide- Sulphur  springs  in  the  southwestern 
part  of  the  park.  Beach  and  Pavilion  springs  in  the  northwestern 
part,  and  Wilson  springs  in  the  southern  part.  The  Antelope  and 
Buffalo  springs,  nonmineral  in  character,  are  situated  at  the  ex- 
treme northeastern  and  upper  end  of  the  park,  at  an  elevation  of 
1,083  feet  above  sea  level,  and  discharge  5,000,000  gallons  daily,  which 
is  the  entire  flow  of  Sulphur  Creek. 

On  May  1,  1907,  Albert  R.  Greene  succeeded  Joseph  F.  Swords  as 
superintendent.  The  park  force  is  composed  of  a  clerk,  three  park 
rangers,  a  forester,  and  a  watchman  for  Bromide  springs. 

The  revenue  derived  during  the  year  from  temporary  leases  was 
inconsiderable,  as  almost  all  have  been  discontinued.  The  lease  of 
W.  L.  Townsley  to  a  building  for  residence  purposes  was  terminated 
July  1,  1907;  and  the  only  concession  now  held  in  the  park  is  that 
granted  to  A.  B.  McBride,  expiring  March  1,  1908,  for  permission  ta 
use  a  pipe  line  which  has  heretofore  been  laid  over  the  park  lands  to 
Rock  Creek,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  water  therefrom  for  the  oper- 
ation of  a  cotton  gin  outside  the  park  boundaries.  This  privilege 
will  not  be  renewed.  The  balance  of  revenues  available  October 
30,  1907,  for  protection,  preservation,  and  improvement  of  the  park 
was  about  $27,560. 

[26472] 


KATIONAX.   PAEKS.  7 

During  the  period  from  June  30,  1906,  to  October  30,  1907,  the 
expenditures  for  salaries  amounted  to  $6,300,  and  for  general  repairs 
and  improvements  to  Bromide,  Cliff  Bromide,  Sulphur-Bromide, 
Taff,  Pavilion  group,  and  several  other  springs,  buildings,  bridges, 
fences,  etc.,  for  extra-day  labor  during  the  summer,  and  for  sewer 
system  surveys,  about  $5,500. 

The  office  and  residence  of  the  superintendent  and  other  buildings, 
occupied  by  employees,  have  been  repaired  and  improved  during  the 
past  summer.  A  contract  has  been  entered  into  for  the  installation 
of  a  water  system  for  the  office  of  the  superintendent,  at  a  cost  of  $669. 

The  Bland  Hotel,  which  was  appraised  and  paid  for  by  the  Govern- 
ment, under  the  act  of  April  21,  1904,  after  the  segregation  of  the 
lands  now  included  in  the  park,  has  several  times  been  offered  for 
sale,  but  up  to  the  present  time  no  satisfactory  offers  have  been  re- 
ceived. The  superintendent  recommends  the  dismantling  of  the 
building  and  sale  of  the  material,  reserving  enough  brick,  stone, 
and  structural  iron  for  the  construction  of  a  bam  and  forage  house 
in  the  park. 

If  the  park  were  inclosed  with  a  fence  to  keep  out  trespassing  live 
stock  (as  many  as  5,550  head  having  been  removed  in  five  months 
during  the  past  summer),  the  rangers  would  be  able  to  devote  more 
time  to  the  enforcement  of  the  general  regulations  of  the  park.  It 
is  estimated  that  the  construction  of  a  suitable  barbed-wire  fence 
would  cost  $2,048. 

The  superintendent  recommends  the  sale  of  all  that  portion  of  the 
park  north  of  the  south  line  of  Davis  avenue  bordering  on  Kock 
Creek,  and  comprising  approximately  3f  acres  of  land ;  the  installa- 
tion of  telephone  service  in  the  residences  of  all  employees  for  the 
better  organization  of  the  park  force  in  fighting  fire  and  coping  with 
lawlessness;  the  construction  of  a  path,  or  burro  trail,  from  Bromide 
springs  to  the  Sulphur-Bromide  and  Taff  springs,  a  distance  of  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile,  to  save  a  roundabout  walk  of  2  miles,  which  trail 
it  is  also  stated  would  materially  assist  the  park  administration ;  the 
construction  of  a  road  adapted  for  vehicles  folloAving  the  meanders 
of  Sulphur  Creek,  from  East  Central  Park  to  Antelope  and  Buffalo 
springs;  a  topographic  survey  of  the  park  for  landscaping  and  other 
purposes;  the  dismantling  of  the  old  stone  building  heretofore  used 
as  the  superintendent's  residence,  and  the  purchase  of  driving  and 
draft  horses. 

There  has  been  submitted  for  the  consideration  of  the  Department 
resolutions  passed  by  the  city  council  of  Sulphur  and  a  number  of 
citizens  recommending  the  inclusion  in  the  park  of  the  "  South  Side," 
a  portion  of  Sulphur  lying  south  of  the  park  and  entirely  separated 
from  the  main  part  of  the  town,  which  contains  approximately  234.83 
acres,  with  an  estimated  value,  for  the  lands  and  improvements,  of 
$100,000.  In  case  of  favorable  action  by  Congress,  the  superinten- 
dent believes  administration  would  be  further  aided  by  the  addition 
of  one  and  a  half  sections  of  land,  with  an  area  of  about  200  acres, 
south  of  the  ''  South  Side,"  containing  delightful  scenery  and  a  site 
for  an  artificial  lake. 

Responding  to  an  urgent  request  of  the  city  of  Sulphur,  and  for 
the  purpose  of  providing  better  sanitation  for  the  park  and  protection 
of  the  waters  and  springs  therein,  surveys  have  been  made  for  a  sani- 

[26472] 


8  NATIONAL   PAKKS. 

tary  sewer  system  in  the  park,  with  laterals  to  intersect  others  con- 
necting with  the  sewer  system  of  the  city.  Owing  to  the  topography 
of  the  country  the  drainage  and  sewage  from  the  city  of  Sulphur 
fall  into  Rock  Greek  in  the  park,  and  at  times  during  floods  the  waters 
of  the  creek  rise,  overflow  the  banks,  and  completely  cover  adjacent 
mineral  springs,  which  can  not  be  free  from  contamination  as  long 
as  such  a  condition  exists  unless  very  costly  improvements  are  made. 
The  pipes  would  enter  the  park  at  a  point  opposite  First  street  E.,  and 
continue  down  Sulphur  and  Rock  creeks  to  a  point  below  Bromide 
springs  outside  of  the  reservation. 

The  approximate  cost  of  the  work  is  $30,000,  and,  as  the  city  of 
Sulphur  would  be  benefited  by  the  construction  of  such  sewer  as  much 
as  the  Government,  it  will  be  only  just  to  require  the  municipality  to 
bear  half  the  expense,  and  an  estimate,  so  framed,  has  been  presented 
to  Gongress. 

During  the  past  summer  the  city  of  Sulphur  has  been  granted  tem- 
porary permission  to  take  water  from  Sulphur  Greek,  in  the  park, 
a  short  distance  below  a  cascade  known  as  "  Little  Niagara,"  for 
domestic  water  supply  and  fire  protection,  to  the  extent  of  100,000 
gallons  of  water  daily,  the  pumping  to  be  done  between  10  o'clock  at 
night  and  5  o'clock  in  the  morning,  so  as  not  to  lessen  the  flow  of  the 
creek  during  the  daytime.  The  city  is  likewise  required,  in  connection 
with  the  above,  to  construct  a  storage  reservoir  outside  the  park 
boundaries  with  a  capacity  of  500,000  gallons. 

A  registry  of  visitors  to  Bromide  spring  shows  that  in  September, 
1907,  the  number  was  18,554,  and  in  October,  15,971.  As  the  popula- 
tion of  Sulphur  is  approximately  4,000,  it  is  apparent  that  many 
residents  make  daily  visits  to  this  spring,  which  has  gained  a  reputa- 
tion for  the  medicinal  qualities  of  its  waters.  About  25,000  people 
visited  the  park  by  rail  to  Sulphur,  and  about  3.000  persons  came  bv 
wagon  and  camped  in  the  park  during  the  year. 

Estimates  for  this  reservation  have  been  submitted  to  Gongress 
as  follows :  Gonstruction  of  stone  culvert  at  Sulphur  run,  near  Pavil- 
ion springs,  $500;  construction  of  park  barn  for  horses  and  forage, 
$2,000;  care  and  repair  of  buildings,  fences,  bridges,  pavilions,  and 
springs,  $2,500 ;  and  one-half  of  the  cost  of  construction  of  a  sanitary 
sewer  system,  $15,000;  total,  $20,000.  Other  expenses  of  protection 
and  improvement  can  be  paid  from  the  balance  of  the  park  revenues 
for  the  next  fiscal  j^ear. 

MESA  VERDE  ^^ATIOIS^AI.  PARK. 

By  act  of  Gongress  approved  June  29,  1906  (34  Stat.  L.,  616), 
certain  tracts  of  land  in  Montezuma  Gounty.  Golo.,  adjacent  to  the 
Southern  Ute  Indian  Reservation,  were  reserved  and  withdrawn  from 
settlement,  entry,  sale,  or  other  disposal,  and  set  apart  as  a  public 
reservation  to  be  known  as  the  "  Mesa  Verde  National  Park."  The 
area  of  this  tract  is  65.5  square  miles,  or  41.920  acres,  and  the  altitude 
of  the  highest  point.  Point  Lookou.t,  is  8.700  feet  above  sea  level  and 
2,000  feet  above  the  Montezuma  Valley,  the  southern  rim  of  which 
follows  the  park  boundary  line  on  the  north  for  miles. 

The  park  is  placed  under  the  exclusive  control  of  the  Secretary  of 
the  Interior,  who  is  authorized  to  prescribe  such  rules  and  regula- 

[26472] 


NATIONAL  PARKS.  9 

tions  and  establish  such  serv^ice  as  he  may  deem  necessary  for  the 
care  and  management  of  the  park,  and  for  the  preservation  from 
injury  or  spoliation  of  the  ruins  and  other  works  and  relics  of  pre- 
historic or  primitive  man  within  the  limits  of  the  reservation,  and  to 
grant  permits  for  the  examination,  excavation,  and  other  gathering 
of  objects  of  antiquity  by  any  person  or  persons  deemed  properly 
qualified  to  conduct  the  same,  provided  they  are  undertaken  only  for 
the  benefit  of  some  rej)utable  museum,  university,  college,  or  other 
recognized  scientific  or  educational  institution,  with  a  view  to  in- 
creasing the  knowledge  of  such  objects  and  aiding  the  general 
advancement  of  archaeological  science. 

The  act  also  provides  that  all  prehistoric  ruins  situated  within  5 
miles  of  the  boundaries  of  the  park,  on  Indian  and  public  lands  not 
alienated  by  patent  from  the  ownership  of  the  United  States,  shall  be 
under  the  custodianship  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior,  to  be  admin- 
istered by  the  same  service  established  for  the  custodianship  of  the 
park.  The  area  of  this  5-mile  strip  is  about  274  square  miles,  or 
175,360  acres. 

The  Rio  Mancos  cuts  through  the  park  and  abutting  5-mile  strip 
from  northeast  to  southwest,  forming  a  canyon  1,000  to  2,000  feet 
deep.  On  both  sides  of  this  gorge,  more  especially  to  the  west, 
narrow  lateral  canyons  of  like  depth  and  even  more  picturesque 
beauty  cut  the  mesa  into  shreds,  producing  successions  of  hugh  prom- 
ontories, sculptured  ledges,  ancl  bold,  jagged  cliifs.  The  Xavaho, 
Cliff,  Moccasin,  and  Ute  are  the  principal  canyons  which  enter  the 
Mancos  from  the  north.  These,  with  their  numerous  branches,  fur- 
nish the  labyrinth  of  cliffs  in  the  high  and  almost  inaccessible  re- 
cesses of  which  we  find  the  abandoned  homes  of  the  ancient  inhabit- 
ants. The  Fort  Lewis.  Grass,  and  Webber  Canyons,  running  into 
Mancos  Canyon  from  the  east,  contain  many  ancient  ruins,  but  are 
rather  less  picturesque  than  those  on  the  west. 

Within  the  park  jurisdiction  are  many  notable  prehistoric  ruins, 
the  cliff  dwellings  comprising  a  group  of  great  importance  to  the 
study  of  American  archaeology. 

The  princij^al  and  most  accessible  ruins  are  the  Spruce  Tree  House, 
located  near  the  head  of  a  draw  of  Navaho  Canyon,  originally  con- 
taining about  130  rooms,  built  of  dressed  stone  laid  in  adobe  mortar, 
with  the  outside  tiers  chinked  with  chips  of  rock  or  broken  pottery; 
the  Cliff  Palace,  located  about  2  miles  east  of  the  Spruce  Tree  House, 
in  a  left  branch  of  the  Clitf  Canyon,  consisting  of  a  group  of  houses 
with  ruins  of  146  rooms,  including  20  round  kivas,  or  ceremonial 
rooms,  and  a  tapering  loopholed  tower,  forming  a  crescent  of  about 
100  yards  from  horn  to  horn,  which  is  reputed  to  be  one  of  the  most 
famous  works  of  prehistoric  man  in  existence ;  the  Balcony  House,  a 
mile  east  of  the  Cliff  House,  in  Cliff  Canyon,  containing  about  25 
rooms,  some  of  which  are  in  almost  perfect  condition.  In  each  of 
these  villages  is  an  elaborate  system  of  fortifications,  with  in  some 
cases  walls  2.3  feet  thick  and  20  feet  high,  watchtowers  30  feet  high, 
and  blockhouses  pierced  with  small  loopholes  for  arrows. 

These  villages  and  other  important  ruins,  particularly  the  Spring 
House,  Long  House,  and  Mug  House,  are  located  on  the  Southern 
Ute  Indian   Reservation,  within  the   5-mile  strip   surrounding  the 

[26472] 


10  NATIONAL    PARKS. 

park,  where  the  park  jurisdiction  is  not  exclusive,  and  it  will  be  more 
difficult  to  preserve  and  protect  such  objects  of  antiquity  than  the 
ruins  on  the  park  lands. 

Prior  to  1907  no  appropriation  was  made  for  this  park,  and  for 
administrative  purposes  it  became  necessary  to  designate  the  super- 
intendent of  the  Southern  Ute  Indian  Training  and  Industrial 
School  at  IgTiacio,  Colo.,  as  acting  superintendent  of  the  park. 
Upon  the  recommendation  of  the  Department  an  appropriation  of 
$7,500  was  made  available  for  the  improvement  of  the  park  during 
the  present  year,  and  Mr.  Hans  M.  Randolph,  of  Colorado,  was  ap- 
pointed superintendent.  Owing  to  the  absence  of  any  buildings  for 
his  accommodation  on  the  reservation,  his  headquarters  were  estab- 
lished at  Mancos,  Colo.,  on  the  Rio  Grande  Southern  Railroad.  At 
this  point  guides  and  saddle  and  pack  horses  can  be  obtained,  and 
the  park  is  easily  accessible. 

The  sum  of  $3,000  has  been  set  aside  for  the  construction  of  roads, 
trails,  and  the  procuring  of  water  supply  in  the  reservation,  and 
$2,000  for  the  examination,  excavation,  and  repair  of  ruins  and  other 
evidences  of  ancient  civilization.  This  latter  work  is  to  be  conducted 
under  the  immediate  supervision  of  Dr.  J.  Walter  Fewkes,  of  the 
Smithsonian  Institution,  which  offered  to  cooperate  with  this  De- 
partment in  every  vraj  in  the  prosecution  of  scientific  work  in  the 
park.  A  survey  of  a  practicable  road  from  Mancos  in  and  through 
the  park  and  the  5-mile  strip  to  the  ruins  was  entered  upon  by  George 
Mills,  United  States  deputy  surveyor,  late  in  the  fall  and  prosecuted 
until  work. Av as  stopped  by  the  snow.  It  will  be  resumed  in  the 
spring.  The  initial  expense  of  opening  the  park  by  the  construction 
of  roads  and  trails  to  make  accessible  the  many  ruins,  and  aid  in  po- 
licing and  protecting  the  reservation  from  forest  fires,  will  aggregate 
approximately  $19,500,  and  an  estimate  in  that  amount  has  been  sub- 
mitted to  Congress. 

At  the  time  of  the  creation  of  this  park  there  were  360  acres  of  pat- 
ented lands,  560  acres  in  unpatented  entries,  and  lands  in  sections  16 
and  36  granted  to  the  State  aggregating  1,280  acres.  For  adminis- 
trative purposes  these  private  holdings  should  be  eliminated  by  Con- 
gress making  adequate  appropriation  for  the  purchase  thereof.  In 
the  5-mile  limit  outside  the  park  boundaries  there  were  patented  lands 
aggregating  31,535.78  acres,  unpatented  entries  aggregating  13,872.16 
acres,  and  lands  granted  to  the  State  aggregating  4,920  acres.  An 
investigation  is  noAv  being  made  in  the  Indian  OfRce  to  determine  the 
quantitj^  of  allotted  land  in  that  portion  of  the  Southern  Ute  Reser- 
vation within  the  5-mile  strip. 

The  act  setting  aside  the  land  above  described  as  the  Mesa  Verde 
National  Park  is  defective  in  that  no  provision  was  made  authorizing 
the  Secretary  of  the  Interior  to  grant  privileges  or  to  lease  sites  to 
persons  for  the  entertainment  and  accommodation  of  tourists  travel- 
ing therein,  or  for  using  the  revenues  derived  from  such  privileges, 
leases,  etc.,  in  the  care  and  management  of  the  park. 

[2G472] 


NATIONAL   PARKS.  11 


CASA  GRAXDE  RUIN. 


This  reservation  is  located  near  Florence,  Ariz.,  about  18  miles 
northeast  of  Casa  Grande  station,  on  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad, 
and  contains  about  480  acres.  It  was  set  aside  by  Executive  order 
dated  June  22,  1892,  under  the  act  approved  March  2.  1889  (25  Stat. 
L.,  961). 

Casa  Grande  is  an  Indian  ruin  of  undetermined  antiquity,  which 
was  discovered  in  1694  by  Padre  Kino,  a  Jesuit  missionary.  This 
great  house  is  said  to  be  the  most  important  ruin  of  its  type  in  the 
Southwest,  and  as  such  it  has  strong  claims  for  archseological  study, 
repair,  and  permanent  preservation.  It  is  built  of  puddled  clay, 
molded  into  walls  and  dried  in  the  sun,  and  is  of  perishable  character. 
The  main  building  was  originally  five  or  six  stories  high,  and  cov- 
ered a  space  59  feet  by  43  feet  3  inches.  The  walls  have  been  gradu- 
ally disintegrating,  owing  to  the  action  of  the  elements.  A  corru- 
gated iron  roof  has  been  erected  over  this  building  to  protect  it,  so 
far  as  practicable,  from  further  decay. 

Surrounding  Casa  Grande  proper  is  a  rectangular  walled  inclosure 
or  "  compound,"  having  an  area  of  about  2  acres.  In  this  inclosure, 
which  has  been  called  "  Compound  A,"  there  have  recently  been  ex- 
cavated a  number  of  buildings  or  clusters  of  rooms,  and  others  are 
known  to  exist  which  have  not  yet  been  excavated.  Two  other  com- 
pounds have  been  discovered  and  designated,  respectively,  "  Com- 
pound B  "  and  "  Compound  C ;  "  these'  have  not  yet  been  excavated, 
but  are  still  in  the  form  of  mounds.  The  three  compounds  together 
constitute  what  is  known  as  the  "  Casa  Grande  "  group  of  ruins. 

The  custodian,  Mr.  Frank  Pinkley,  who  resides  on  the  reservation, 
reports  that  interest  in  the  ruin  has  greatly  increased  as  a  result  of 
the  recent  excavations. 

An  appropriation  of  $3,000  was  made  by  the  sundry  civil  appro- 
priation act  of  June  30,  1906,  for  the  improvement  of  the  reservation 
and  for  excavation  of  the  ruins,  to  be  expended  under  the  supervision 
of  the  Secretary  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution. 

Dr.  J.  Walter  Fewkes,  of  the  Bureau  of  American  Ethnology,  was 
designated  to  make  the  excavations  and  repairs  at  the  ruin ;  and  the 
results  of  his  work  have  been  published  by  the  Smithsonian  Institu- 
tion in  a  pamphlet  entitled  "  Excavations  at  Casa  Grande,  Arizona, 
in  1906-7"  (Smithsonian  Miscellaneous  Collections,  vol.  50,  pt.  3). 
In  summarizing  the  results  of  his  work  Doctor  Fewkes  says : 

Casa  Grande  and  other  ruins  in  the  Gila  Valley  resemble  each  other  in  an 
architectural  feature  that  is  exceptional  in  our  prehistoric  ruins.  This  char- 
acter is  a  rectangular  area  surrounded  by  a  wall,  within  which  are  rooms, 
courts,  and  plazas.  The  word  "  compound  "  has  been  adopted  as  a  convenient 
designation  of  this  unusual  feature.  There  are  three  of  these  compounds  in 
the  Casa  Grande  group,  and  there  is  good  evidence  that  they  were  inhabited  at 
different  periods  in  the  history  of  the  settlement.  The  historic  building  called 
Casa  Grande  is  the  most  important  house  in  the  largest  of  these  compounds, 
which  I  have  designated  Compound  A. 

The  appropriation  for  field  work  during  last  winter  was  devoted  to  the  exca- 
vation and  repair  of  the  newly  discovered  boundary  wall,  buildings,  and  plazas 
of  Compound  A.  It  sufficed  for  the  excavation  of  about  three-fifths  of  the 
inclosed  area,  in  addition  to  the  surrounding  wall,  and  for  the  removal  of  the 
debris.  The  surrounding  wall  of  Compound  A,  which  was  found  to  measure  420 
feet  north  and  south  by  215  feet  wide,  and  to  be  oriented  3°  east  of  north,  now 

[26472] 


J  2  NATIONAL   PARKS. 

stands  several  feet  in  relief.  In  the  progress  of  the  excavation  in  this  compound 
Is  new Tooms  and  several  courts  and  plazas  were  brought  to  light.  The  new 
rooms  weiefoxmd  to  be  arranged  in  groups  or  buildings,  the  ground  plans  of 

'"tLIc"  vLuonrreTeSfa'characteristic  collection  of  minor  antiquities  which 
are  now  in  the  National  Museum. 

An  appropriation  of  $3,000  for  protection  and  improvement  has 
been  mide  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  30,  1908,  to  be  expended 
under  the  direction  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution  This  appropria- 
tion it  is  stated,  will  be  expended  in  completing  the  excavations  and 
improvements  in  Compound  A,  and  in  work  upon  another  group  o± 

ruins  loiown  as  Compound  B.  •  ^-       u         a    ^  r,  ^i.^ 

The  custodian  recommends  that  an  appropriation  be  made  tor  the 
purpose  of  constructing  a  house  for  the  accommodation  of  visitors  to 
the  ruin  storing  relics  which  are  to  be  selected  for  that  purpose  from 
the  collection  at  the  National  Museum,  etc.  An  estimate  in  the  sum 
of  $2  500  has  been  submitted  to  Congress  for  the  purpose  indicated. 


[26472] 

o 


W  Q7 


0^         .    O  "    9    .         ^Q 


bv" 


v<^' 


'  V  ^•^^..<-*'' yMk^  X/'  /,aK-.  ^-^..^^  /- 


r  ..^". 


;.   '^^0^     oV^^^^U^'-    «>:--'*' 


0  c  °."   "  * 


^,' ,  ■j.*^^   •: 


/^-^ 


«^  .<:-^5i-.  ^^  .*■»*  />i^.%  *-*.  _«'  -i<^irsi-.  ^^  .*"  .•>«^: